The Five Senses of Morocco

Upon my arrival in Tangier, Morocco, my initial thought was, “This doesn't look like Africa.” But then I realized that my expectations of Africa were solely based on images I had seen in the media or things that I had heard from other people’s experiences in Africa. After attempting to disregard any preconceptions I had about Morocco, or Africa in general, I tried to allow myself to observe and learn as much of the culture as I could. 

This is where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic Ocean.

I found that Tangier did not appear too different from Seville with the exception that women were pretty much fully clothed from head to toe and some of the men were dressed in traditional Moroccan garb.

Our tour guide Tahmi, dressed in a kaftan, a traditional Islamic robe.

However, as we disembarked from the bus at our first major stop in Meknes, I became overwhelmed with the amount of sights, smells, and sounds of Morocco. To attempt to describe everything I observed, felt, and experienced would take much longer than a simple blog post. So, I thought I would take you through a brief walk-through of the “five senses of Morocco” that I experienced in the few short days that I spent there.

Sounds

One of the things that our tour guide first told us when we were on the bus in Morocco was that most people there spoke multiple languages, including: Arabic, French, Spanish, English, and possibly even Italian.

Market in Meknes, Morocco.

As we walked through the market in Meknes, I found that there were so many different sounds to take in: different languages being spoken, people having everyday conversations, vendors shouting to get your attention, animals, cars, children playing in the streets, music permeating the air, etc. My senses were on overload, especially after hours of traveling at early hours in the morning, but I actually enjoyed listening to the different sounds of Morocco.

And here's a funny thing that happened, too: In Arabic, balek, means "excuse me," so whenever someone would come down the street with a large cart or donkeys, I'd hear "Balek! Balek!" To me, it sounded like they were saying "Bullock, bullock!!" It's just funny how a name in one country could mean something completely different in another country. =)

Touch (Feel)

While I didn't go around Morocco touching everything in sight, it was still interesting to compare the way the streets felt under your feet to the way it felt when riding on the bus. The main highways were paved, but for the most part, we tended to be in the center of the cities we visited, which meant we were walking on broken cobblestone or simply a dirt road with rocks and bumps and all. Our bus ride back to Tangier was also very windy and bumpy, which meant many people (myself included) felt a little carsick.

Our tour guide in Chefchaouen. Notice the street behind him is made of stones. It's not the smoothest pathway!

Sights

I knew that Morocco is an Islamic country, but it was actually pretty cool to visit after learning more about the history of Seville and the Arabic/Islamic influences that existed there, too. One of the main attractions of Seville is the Cathedral (world’s third largest Catholic cathedral) and La Giralda, the bell tower right next to it.

Minaret in Meknes, Mococco.

La Giralda in Seville, Spain.

As you can see from the two pictures, the bell tower/minaret in Seville is very similar to the minaret in Morocco. The one in Seville stands there today as a remnant of Islamic influences from the 12th century (a mosque used to stand right where the cathedral is today in Seville). A minaret is located right next to the mosque and is used to call Muslims to prayer five times a day.

Smells

The smells were strongest when we walked through the market in the oldest part of Fez, dating back from the 9th and 10th centuries. I think I could smell every type of smell that a person could think of: a mixture of spices, warm bread baking, smoke from cigarettes, tangy smells, sweet smells, bad smells, good smells. It was quite overwhelming for my nose, actually. At any given moment, you didn't really know what you were going to smell.

Oldest Tannery in Fez, Morocco.

At one point, we visited the oldest tannery (leather factory) in Morocco – and it smelled awful. We thought that our tour guide was joking when he said they were going to give us “gas masks.” Turns out he was only half joking, as they handed us fresh mint leaves to help mask the smell of the tannery. It was all worth it, though, because after the tour, we saw the finished products, which were absolutely gorgeous! 

Mint leaves to help mask the smell of the tannery.

The finished products!

Tastes

Of course, we tried some delicious food while we were in Morocco! One night, we went to a dinner and a show, where I tried many types of Moroccan foods.

Our Moroccan appetizers: green beans, cauliflower, beets, lentils, potatoes, carrots, olives, salad, garbanzos - yum!

Cous cous with chicken, lentils, and lots of yummy veggies!

Pastilla - a Moroccan dish that is both sweet and savory. It has crushed nuts, cinnamon, sugar, shredded chicken, and other spices. Each bite you take is unexpected - it could be entirely sweet, entirely savory, or a mix of both. I really enjoyed trying it.

And one last picture for my Mom: Me wrapped in a traditional turban.

Becoming a Local

Quién (Who): Me! (Joy!)
Qué (What): This is a personal experiment that I am conducting to see how long it takes for me to become a "local" at a nearby coffee shop. I am documenting what happens each day. I will order the exact same thing around the exact same time every day, excluding weekends. 
Donde (Where): A place right near my casa that is called Taberna El Papelón ("Tavern on Newsprint").
Cuándo (When): Around 10 am every weekday morning. 
Por qué (Why): To become a local Sevillana! 

Day 1: 16 de Septiembre:Café con leche
Walked up to the window and ordered. The waiter also asked me if I wanted toast, but I didn't, so I said no thanks and sat down at a table. Then, a few minutes later, he brought me my coffee. 

After finishing my coffee, I wasn't sure whether I should ask the waiter for the bill (as you do in many Spanish restaurants) or go back up to the window and pay. 

So I figured that I needed to get up and go the window and pay. I waited a little while and then the waitress was kind enough to tell me that it was one euro, so I took one out and left it on the counter, and she said, "Gracias, guapa." 

I'm looking forward to seeing how it will go tomorrow, hopefully a little smoother!

Day 2: 17 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Today was easier because I had already been to this place before. I walked up to the window, waited for the woman running the place to finish with another person's order, and then asked for my coffee. Same as yesterday, she asked me if I that was all I wanted to which I replied yes. I wonder if it's weird for me to only order coffee from them? 

Anyways, the waiter brought my coffee out a few minutes later and didn't really seem to recognize me (or acknowledge me much). 

After I finished, the waiter was busy, but I knew it cost one euro, so I took that amount out, put it on the counter just inside the window and said "Gracias" to him before taking off. 

Day 3: 18 de Septiembre: Café con leche
It was a little odd today, but I think the waitress is starting to recognize me, so that's good. I placed my order and again, they asked me if that's all I wanted. 

I sat down, the coffee was brought to me, and then I enjoyed it while doing a little people watching. 

After I was done, a lot of people were standing at the window waiting to place orders, so it took a while for me to pay. I didn't have exactly one euro this time to pay, so I had to wait to get change. The waitress who recognized me eventually was nice enough to give me change. 

Day 4: 19 de Septiembre: Café con leche y una tostada con aceite
So, normally I sit outside, but today I was a little surprised to find that the tables weren't outside. Instead, I had to sit inside (which worked just fine, too). I also decided to eat "breakfast" here this morning, too (because the kitchen in my casa was an absolute mess). I ended up ordering my usual coffee plus a piece of toast with olive oil (which is actually very delicious, but not super satisfying in terms of protein or an "American" breakfast). 

Anyways, I think I am really starting to become a local! The waitress who is always there saw me and asked "Un cafe con leche?" before I even said anything - she knows my order! She is super sweet and I really enjoy coming back to this place every day because of her. After I finished my breakfast, I gave her two euros (a little more than my usual one euro coffee because of the toast) and went on my merry way. 

Day 5: 20 de Septiembre: Café con leche
The waitress, whose name is Carmen I found out, definitely recognizes me, but I think I confused her about my order. Haha. This time she asked me what I wanted and I only got my usual coffee today. 

It was pretty simple: I ordered, enjoyed my coffee, and then paid and left. =)

Day 6: 23 de Septiembre: Café con leche, zumo de naranja, tostada con aceite
Carmen asked me if I wanted café con leche as soon as I walked in today. This time I got an entire breakfast though, so I also got some orange juice and toast. 

After eating my breakfast, I stayed around a little longer to write my blog post for CEA. 

Eventually, I went to the counter and paid, then left. 

Day 7: 24 de Septiembre: Café con leche
I was running a little late today, so I had to get my coffee para llevar (to go). Carmen did not realize this, so she told me to sit down, but then I explained that I couldn't stay, so she understood. 

Day 8: 25 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Carmen wasn't there today, but I think it is because I came a little later than I usually do. But two of the other guys were there and they are finally starting to recognize me. I ordered, sat down, drank my coffee, and then paid. 

Day 9: 26 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Pretty typical today - went in, ordered coffee, drank it, and then paid. 

Day 10: 27 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Success! As soon as I walked in, the waiter said, "Un café con leche?" and started preparing it for me! I now feel as if I am officially a local! =) 

Mi Intercambio (My Cultural Exchange Partner)

I finally had my first meeting with mi intercambio this week. Originally, I was supposed to meet with another intercambio, but he never showed up; so, after figuring a few things out, I was connected with Emilia. I thought it would be a fun idea to do a bit of a comparison between Emilia and myself.

Intercambios: Emilia (left) and Joy - Me (right)

Who: Joy (Me) and Emilia

What: Intercambio Cultural Exchange Program

Where: Sevilla, España

When: Once a week

Why: To practice Spanish/English

About Emilia:

Emilia is 39 years old and she has lived in or near Seville her entire life. Currently, she lives very close to the airport.

She lives with her mother, because her father died a few years back. She is the second oldest of six children: 2 sisters and 4 brothers.

She works at a school for children and teaches 3-year olds English. The school is semi-private, since parents have to pay a small fee for their children. This school is the same one that she attended when she was younger.

Why be an intercambio?
Emilia learned English when she was in school, so she studied in America, somewhere near Washington, DC for four months.

She has also traveled to London, but she says she prefers American English over British English because she is more accustomed to the American accent.

And since Emilia teaches English to kids, she wants to practice as much as she can. She laughed and said that three-year olds do not speak very much, so she wants to broaden her English vocabulary.

Los fines de semana (Weekends)
Emilia told me that she does not do very much during the weekends because she is usually tired from working with kids. She rests, goes out with the same friends she has had since high school, and spends time with her family.

Favorite thing about Sevilla?
Emilia’s two favorite things about Seville is the weather and its location. The city is well-situated because it is close to the beach, but also the mountains.

What is your favorite food to eat in Sevilla?
Emilia says that she can cook a very good tortilla de patata (Spanish Omelette). Her favorite food to eat is pasta and pizza (anything Italian), but her favorite tapa is ensaladilla (made with mayo, veggies, and potatoes).

Joy - Me (the author): on top of Las Setas, overlooking the city.

About Joy:

I am 21 years old and I am a senior in college, studying accounting with an interest in tax. I grew up in Seattle, Washington. For the next three months, I am living in La Alameda in the city of Seville because I am a student and I am studying here. 

When I am not living at my school, Seattle Pacific University, I live with both my parents in a nearby suburb of Seattle. I also have a younger sister, 18, who just started school at the University of Washington.

Why be an intercambio? I took about six years of Spanish classes in junior high and high school. I’ve been exposed to Peruvian Spanish, Mexican Spanish, Costa Rican Spanish, and a little bit of Castilian Spanish before I came to Spain.

I wanted to come to Spain to practice my Spanish and I know that the best way to do so is to talk, talk, and talk a LOT!

The accent in Seville is also a bit of an adjustment to get used to, so it will be good to talk to someone who can speak a little slower, help me expand my vocabulary, and correct my mistakes.

Los fines de semana (Weekends)
I don’t think I have had a consistent weekend activity here in Spain, probably because there is so much to do and see! So far, I have seen some of the sights around Seville, visited Portugal, watched a bullfight, and gone out for tapas.

Favorite thing about Sevilla?
I’m not sure if I can pick a favorite thing! I know that I fell in love with the city almost from the first moment I arrived. One thing that I really appreciate about Seville is that it is a good mix of modern and historical culture. I walk past the world’s third largest Catholic cathedral every single day, but I also walk through a modern shopping district, too. The mix just adds a certain charm to the city.

What is your favorite food to eat in Sevilla?
Even though I learned that paella is not traditionally from Seville, my Señora (Lola) makes the best that I have ever tasted. It is a rice dish typically made with seafood, but Lola makes it with chicken and pork. I also really like espinacas con garbanzos, which is a common tapa here and it is cooked spinach with chickpeas - absolutely delicious!