The Five Senses of Morocco

Upon my arrival in Tangier, Morocco, my initial thought was, “This doesn't look like Africa.” But then I realized that my expectations of Africa were solely based on images I had seen in the media or things that I had heard from other people’s experiences in Africa. After attempting to disregard any preconceptions I had about Morocco, or Africa in general, I tried to allow myself to observe and learn as much of the culture as I could. 

This is where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic Ocean.

I found that Tangier did not appear too different from Seville with the exception that women were pretty much fully clothed from head to toe and some of the men were dressed in traditional Moroccan garb.

Our tour guide Tahmi, dressed in a kaftan, a traditional Islamic robe.

However, as we disembarked from the bus at our first major stop in Meknes, I became overwhelmed with the amount of sights, smells, and sounds of Morocco. To attempt to describe everything I observed, felt, and experienced would take much longer than a simple blog post. So, I thought I would take you through a brief walk-through of the “five senses of Morocco” that I experienced in the few short days that I spent there.

Sounds

One of the things that our tour guide first told us when we were on the bus in Morocco was that most people there spoke multiple languages, including: Arabic, French, Spanish, English, and possibly even Italian.

Market in Meknes, Morocco.

As we walked through the market in Meknes, I found that there were so many different sounds to take in: different languages being spoken, people having everyday conversations, vendors shouting to get your attention, animals, cars, children playing in the streets, music permeating the air, etc. My senses were on overload, especially after hours of traveling at early hours in the morning, but I actually enjoyed listening to the different sounds of Morocco.

And here's a funny thing that happened, too: In Arabic, balek, means "excuse me," so whenever someone would come down the street with a large cart or donkeys, I'd hear "Balek! Balek!" To me, it sounded like they were saying "Bullock, bullock!!" It's just funny how a name in one country could mean something completely different in another country. =)

Touch (Feel)

While I didn't go around Morocco touching everything in sight, it was still interesting to compare the way the streets felt under your feet to the way it felt when riding on the bus. The main highways were paved, but for the most part, we tended to be in the center of the cities we visited, which meant we were walking on broken cobblestone or simply a dirt road with rocks and bumps and all. Our bus ride back to Tangier was also very windy and bumpy, which meant many people (myself included) felt a little carsick.

Our tour guide in Chefchaouen. Notice the street behind him is made of stones. It's not the smoothest pathway!

Sights

I knew that Morocco is an Islamic country, but it was actually pretty cool to visit after learning more about the history of Seville and the Arabic/Islamic influences that existed there, too. One of the main attractions of Seville is the Cathedral (world’s third largest Catholic cathedral) and La Giralda, the bell tower right next to it.

Minaret in Meknes, Mococco.

La Giralda in Seville, Spain.

As you can see from the two pictures, the bell tower/minaret in Seville is very similar to the minaret in Morocco. The one in Seville stands there today as a remnant of Islamic influences from the 12th century (a mosque used to stand right where the cathedral is today in Seville). A minaret is located right next to the mosque and is used to call Muslims to prayer five times a day.

Smells

The smells were strongest when we walked through the market in the oldest part of Fez, dating back from the 9th and 10th centuries. I think I could smell every type of smell that a person could think of: a mixture of spices, warm bread baking, smoke from cigarettes, tangy smells, sweet smells, bad smells, good smells. It was quite overwhelming for my nose, actually. At any given moment, you didn't really know what you were going to smell.

Oldest Tannery in Fez, Morocco.

At one point, we visited the oldest tannery (leather factory) in Morocco – and it smelled awful. We thought that our tour guide was joking when he said they were going to give us “gas masks.” Turns out he was only half joking, as they handed us fresh mint leaves to help mask the smell of the tannery. It was all worth it, though, because after the tour, we saw the finished products, which were absolutely gorgeous! 

Mint leaves to help mask the smell of the tannery.

The finished products!

Tastes

Of course, we tried some delicious food while we were in Morocco! One night, we went to a dinner and a show, where I tried many types of Moroccan foods.

Our Moroccan appetizers: green beans, cauliflower, beets, lentils, potatoes, carrots, olives, salad, garbanzos - yum!

Cous cous with chicken, lentils, and lots of yummy veggies!

Pastilla - a Moroccan dish that is both sweet and savory. It has crushed nuts, cinnamon, sugar, shredded chicken, and other spices. Each bite you take is unexpected - it could be entirely sweet, entirely savory, or a mix of both. I really enjoyed trying it.

And one last picture for my Mom: Me wrapped in a traditional turban.

Becoming a Local

Quién (Who): Me! (Joy!)
Qué (What): This is a personal experiment that I am conducting to see how long it takes for me to become a "local" at a nearby coffee shop. I am documenting what happens each day. I will order the exact same thing around the exact same time every day, excluding weekends. 
Donde (Where): A place right near my casa that is called Taberna El Papelón ("Tavern on Newsprint").
Cuándo (When): Around 10 am every weekday morning. 
Por qué (Why): To become a local Sevillana! 

Day 1: 16 de Septiembre:Café con leche
Walked up to the window and ordered. The waiter also asked me if I wanted toast, but I didn't, so I said no thanks and sat down at a table. Then, a few minutes later, he brought me my coffee. 

After finishing my coffee, I wasn't sure whether I should ask the waiter for the bill (as you do in many Spanish restaurants) or go back up to the window and pay. 

So I figured that I needed to get up and go the window and pay. I waited a little while and then the waitress was kind enough to tell me that it was one euro, so I took one out and left it on the counter, and she said, "Gracias, guapa." 

I'm looking forward to seeing how it will go tomorrow, hopefully a little smoother!

Day 2: 17 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Today was easier because I had already been to this place before. I walked up to the window, waited for the woman running the place to finish with another person's order, and then asked for my coffee. Same as yesterday, she asked me if I that was all I wanted to which I replied yes. I wonder if it's weird for me to only order coffee from them? 

Anyways, the waiter brought my coffee out a few minutes later and didn't really seem to recognize me (or acknowledge me much). 

After I finished, the waiter was busy, but I knew it cost one euro, so I took that amount out, put it on the counter just inside the window and said "Gracias" to him before taking off. 

Day 3: 18 de Septiembre: Café con leche
It was a little odd today, but I think the waitress is starting to recognize me, so that's good. I placed my order and again, they asked me if that's all I wanted. 

I sat down, the coffee was brought to me, and then I enjoyed it while doing a little people watching. 

After I was done, a lot of people were standing at the window waiting to place orders, so it took a while for me to pay. I didn't have exactly one euro this time to pay, so I had to wait to get change. The waitress who recognized me eventually was nice enough to give me change. 

Day 4: 19 de Septiembre: Café con leche y una tostada con aceite
So, normally I sit outside, but today I was a little surprised to find that the tables weren't outside. Instead, I had to sit inside (which worked just fine, too). I also decided to eat "breakfast" here this morning, too (because the kitchen in my casa was an absolute mess). I ended up ordering my usual coffee plus a piece of toast with olive oil (which is actually very delicious, but not super satisfying in terms of protein or an "American" breakfast). 

Anyways, I think I am really starting to become a local! The waitress who is always there saw me and asked "Un cafe con leche?" before I even said anything - she knows my order! She is super sweet and I really enjoy coming back to this place every day because of her. After I finished my breakfast, I gave her two euros (a little more than my usual one euro coffee because of the toast) and went on my merry way. 

Day 5: 20 de Septiembre: Café con leche
The waitress, whose name is Carmen I found out, definitely recognizes me, but I think I confused her about my order. Haha. This time she asked me what I wanted and I only got my usual coffee today. 

It was pretty simple: I ordered, enjoyed my coffee, and then paid and left. =)

Day 6: 23 de Septiembre: Café con leche, zumo de naranja, tostada con aceite
Carmen asked me if I wanted café con leche as soon as I walked in today. This time I got an entire breakfast though, so I also got some orange juice and toast. 

After eating my breakfast, I stayed around a little longer to write my blog post for CEA. 

Eventually, I went to the counter and paid, then left. 

Day 7: 24 de Septiembre: Café con leche
I was running a little late today, so I had to get my coffee para llevar (to go). Carmen did not realize this, so she told me to sit down, but then I explained that I couldn't stay, so she understood. 

Day 8: 25 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Carmen wasn't there today, but I think it is because I came a little later than I usually do. But two of the other guys were there and they are finally starting to recognize me. I ordered, sat down, drank my coffee, and then paid. 

Day 9: 26 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Pretty typical today - went in, ordered coffee, drank it, and then paid. 

Day 10: 27 de Septiembre: Café con leche
Success! As soon as I walked in, the waiter said, "Un café con leche?" and started preparing it for me! I now feel as if I am officially a local! =) 

Mi Intercambio (My Cultural Exchange Partner)

I finally had my first meeting with mi intercambio this week. Originally, I was supposed to meet with another intercambio, but he never showed up; so, after figuring a few things out, I was connected with Emilia. I thought it would be a fun idea to do a bit of a comparison between Emilia and myself.

Intercambios: Emilia (left) and Joy - Me (right)

Who: Joy (Me) and Emilia

What: Intercambio Cultural Exchange Program

Where: Sevilla, España

When: Once a week

Why: To practice Spanish/English

About Emilia:

Emilia is 39 years old and she has lived in or near Seville her entire life. Currently, she lives very close to the airport.

She lives with her mother, because her father died a few years back. She is the second oldest of six children: 2 sisters and 4 brothers.

She works at a school for children and teaches 3-year olds English. The school is semi-private, since parents have to pay a small fee for their children. This school is the same one that she attended when she was younger.

Why be an intercambio?
Emilia learned English when she was in school, so she studied in America, somewhere near Washington, DC for four months.

She has also traveled to London, but she says she prefers American English over British English because she is more accustomed to the American accent.

And since Emilia teaches English to kids, she wants to practice as much as she can. She laughed and said that three-year olds do not speak very much, so she wants to broaden her English vocabulary.

Los fines de semana (Weekends)
Emilia told me that she does not do very much during the weekends because she is usually tired from working with kids. She rests, goes out with the same friends she has had since high school, and spends time with her family.

Favorite thing about Sevilla?
Emilia’s two favorite things about Seville is the weather and its location. The city is well-situated because it is close to the beach, but also the mountains.

What is your favorite food to eat in Sevilla?
Emilia says that she can cook a very good tortilla de patata (Spanish Omelette). Her favorite food to eat is pasta and pizza (anything Italian), but her favorite tapa is ensaladilla (made with mayo, veggies, and potatoes).

Joy - Me (the author): on top of Las Setas, overlooking the city.

About Joy:

I am 21 years old and I am a senior in college, studying accounting with an interest in tax. I grew up in Seattle, Washington. For the next three months, I am living in La Alameda in the city of Seville because I am a student and I am studying here. 

When I am not living at my school, Seattle Pacific University, I live with both my parents in a nearby suburb of Seattle. I also have a younger sister, 18, who just started school at the University of Washington.

Why be an intercambio? I took about six years of Spanish classes in junior high and high school. I’ve been exposed to Peruvian Spanish, Mexican Spanish, Costa Rican Spanish, and a little bit of Castilian Spanish before I came to Spain.

I wanted to come to Spain to practice my Spanish and I know that the best way to do so is to talk, talk, and talk a LOT!

The accent in Seville is also a bit of an adjustment to get used to, so it will be good to talk to someone who can speak a little slower, help me expand my vocabulary, and correct my mistakes.

Los fines de semana (Weekends)
I don’t think I have had a consistent weekend activity here in Spain, probably because there is so much to do and see! So far, I have seen some of the sights around Seville, visited Portugal, watched a bullfight, and gone out for tapas.

Favorite thing about Sevilla?
I’m not sure if I can pick a favorite thing! I know that I fell in love with the city almost from the first moment I arrived. One thing that I really appreciate about Seville is that it is a good mix of modern and historical culture. I walk past the world’s third largest Catholic cathedral every single day, but I also walk through a modern shopping district, too. The mix just adds a certain charm to the city.

What is your favorite food to eat in Sevilla?
Even though I learned that paella is not traditionally from Seville, my Señora (Lola) makes the best that I have ever tasted. It is a rice dish typically made with seafood, but Lola makes it with chicken and pork. I also really like espinacas con garbanzos, which is a common tapa here and it is cooked spinach with chickpeas - absolutely delicious! 

Cositas (Little Things)

Well, I haven't written for a couple of weeks, so I thought I'd give another update on what's been happening in my life. 

1). I've started becoming a "local" at a coffee shop just around the corner from my casa. Every week morning around the same time, I go in and order the same thing (más o menos - more or less). Several of the people who work there know me now! [Stay tuned for a post about becoming a local!]

2). I went out for Tapas Thursday with some of the people from my program. 

Left to Right: Kathleen, Hannah, Tiffany, Carli, Addi, Me, Jill, and Dan.

3). Lola, my Señora, makes the world's best paella! Paella is a Spanish rice dish with meat (often with seafood, but not in Lola's).

4). Chocolate con churros is delicious - especially when enjoyed with friends!

Some of my housemates! Left to Right: Sally, Kelsey, Monique, and Me.

5). This last weekend, I visited Portimao, Portugal and fell in love with the beaches there. [So stay tuned for a post about my experience there!]

Here is a glimpse of how gorgeous it is there:

And here are a few random things that I have learned while being here:

• Women greet each other and men with two kisses, one on each cheek. Men, however, shake hands and if they are more familiar, they give each other a pat on the back. 
• Spaniards celebrate their birthday and their Saint's day. 
• You can drink una cerveza (a beer) pretty much at any time of day here. 
• Patriachica is a Spaniard's loyalty to their neighborhood first, then their city, and then, if at all, their country. This is the reason why it is a good idea to become a local at a coffee shop/restaurant/bar - the people will recognize you and give you service quicker and tend to be friendlier. 
• Spaniards have many, many acquaintances and few friends. 
• Spaniards tend to shout a lot. 
• Marianismo refers to one's devotion to the Virgin Mary - but there is more than one. Just like patriachica, each Spanish neighborhood/area remains very loyal to his/her own version of Mary. 
• People rarely decorate the inside of their homes (like around Christmastime or other holidays). A Christmas tree represents a Protestant, so they are very rare in Spain. Nativities are Catholic and will be everywhere starting in December. 

That's all I have for now! ¡Hasta luego! Till later! 

From Seville, Spain to Portimão, Portugal and Back: My Weekend at the Beach

I have always heard that Portugal’s beaches are some of the most beautiful ones in the world, but I don’t think that anyone could believe it until they actually experience it for themselves. To say my weekend in Portimão took my breath away is an absolute understatement. The entire time that I was there, I kept thinking, “Is this real?” 

The beach of Portimão, Portugal.

Waves on the beach of Portimão.

Originally, I thought that I could blog about the similarities and differences between Spain and Portugal, but to be honest, I don’t think I learned enough about Portugal to write an entire entry about that. I've lived in Seville, Spain for almost three weeks now and there are still many more cultural nuances to learn. I was only in Portugal for about two days, most of which was spent relaxing on the beach. 

Laying out in the sun: Carli (right), Addie (middle), and Me - Joy (left).

Portimão is about a three-hour drive west of Seville, which makes the two cities quite similar geographically. The weather was absolutely perfect while we were there – probably in the upper 80’s or mid 90’s.

Reading a book in Spanish on the beach.

Almost as soon as we arrived in Portimão, we all headed for the beach. After laying out in the sun for a while, we headed for the beautiful blue-green waves of the Atlantic Ocean to cool off a bit. It was absolutely relaxing and we thoroughly enjoyed being gently lifted up and down by the smooth waves of the sea.

In the early evening time, my roommates and I decided to go on a tour of the city. It was a rather short, pleasant walk with not too many sites to see, but I still enjoyed it.

The streets of Portimão.

My roommates and me in front of an important building in Portimão

After our leisurely visit in the town of Portimão, we met up with several others for dinner.

Left to right: Sean, Jill, Jackie, Dan, Kathleen, Melissa, Tiffany, Hannah, Lyndsey, Joy (Me), Addie, and Carli.

The next day we were scheduled to go on a boat tour, but unfortunately we were informed that the waters were too rough. Many of us were a little disappointed, because we were looking forward to seeing Lagos, Portugal and exploring some of the caves up close. However, one of our escorts, Aranoa, was still able to take most of us to Lagos to see the view and take some pictures.

Lagos, Portugal.

Beautiful view in Lagos: Me - Joy (left) and Jill (right).

In Lagos with my roommates: Addie (left), Me - Joy (middle), Carli (right).

Panoramic view of Lagos, Portugal.

After spending much too little time taking in this wonderful view, we headed back to Portimão for a few last precious moments on the beach.

Saying goodbye to Portimão and the warm waters of the Atlantic Ocean.

My experience in Portugal is definitely one I will remember for the rest of my life. I loved spending time on the beach, getting to know others in my program, and taking numerous photos to capture our short time in Portimão. Even though I loved this excursion, upon returning to Seville, it made me realize that Seville has definitely become my “home” for the next three months. I look forward to many more experiences to come. ¡Hasta luego!

Una Semana (One Week)!

One week. Seven days. One hundred and sixty-eight hours.

I remember when I was counting down the number of months, weeks, days, and hours until I would leave for Spain - and now, here I am! I have been in Sevilla for approximately one week now. It simultaneously feels like I have been here forever, and yet, also only for a brief moment. 

These past few days, I've had a lot of free time before my classes start, so I've been doing a lot of exploring. I now know my way to and from the CEA Global Campus (where I will be taking my classes) pretty well. It takes me about 20-30 minutes to walk there, depending on how tired I am, how hot it is outside, and how quickly or slowly I am walking. 

CEA Global Campus in Seville (where I am taking all of my classes).

I've also been adjusting to living in mi casa with seven other girls who are also studying here in Sevilla. I was fortunate enough to get my own little cozy room! It's very cute and it's nice, since I go to bed early - hence the reason my host mother/Señora called me la abuela (or, the Grandmother).

Mi habitación - my bedroom!

On Sunday, I explored the city and ended up walking around several neighborhoods, including Barrio Santa Cruz, which is a famous Jewish neighborhood near my school. 

Apparently this balcony inspired some scene in the Barber of Seville.

According to La Leyenda de la Cabeza de la Judia, a Jewish woman named Susona betrayed her father, a rich banker named Diego Suson, by revealing his plans to her Christian lover. As punishment, her head was exposed for everyone to see. (Ew...)

And, I was finally able to try Churros con Chocolate! It was very rich, but also delicious. It definitely lived up to my expectations! Don't think I will eat it too often while I am here, though...

Qué rico!

I even managed to catch a Flamenco show on the street on the way back home!

The highlight of my day yesterday, el lunes (Monday), was visiting the top of Las Setas (the giant mushroom-shaped structure that overlooks the city of Sevilla). 

Las Setas!

The pathway to the top.

I felt like I was on top of the world!

Cool view from underneath the top of Las Setas.

And the weird/cool elevator that took me up to the top of Las Setas.

I was able to experience the culture more this week, too. Here are some closing thoughts, observations, and occurrences: 

• Sevillanos/Spaniards don't really have any qualms about personal space. In restaurants or at las tiendas (the stores), in order to get service, you kind of just shove your way to the front and stand right in front of the person whose attention you want. 
• For some reason, someone thought that I am French. Do I act "French"?
• When I was going to Plaza de España on Saturday, I got a little lost and confused, so I asked a security guard where it was, and it turns out if I had just kept walking and gone around the corner, I would have found it. So much for being a local. Maybe someday!
• People in Spain stare a lot. At first, I was a little confused, because I kept wondering, if I looked funny or outright American, but I guess it turns out that Spaniards just stare at everyone and it's not considered rude. 
• I thought I drank a lot of water back home, but now, I feel as if I need to drink a gallon of water every time I step outside into the humidity of the day. Good thing the tap water is safe to drink in Spain. Now I understand why siesta time is so important in Spain - it's to rest and cool off! 

Well, classes start tomorrow! Wish me luck! Buenas noches desde España.

Esponjas (Sponges)

Do you ever just feel like you're a giant sponge, absorbing in so much information all at once, that you simultaneously feel like you know everything and nothing? 

I think that pretty well describes what it is like to live in a different country and attempt to learn the culture in a short couple of months. 

During our orientation session today, we talked about how difficult it is to pick up on another country's culture - we really are only able to observe the tip of the iceberg. I mean, if we think about it, there are almost an infinite number of factors that constitute a culture - and there are even cultures within the general culture as well (also known as subcultures). 

At a base level, there are the obvious senses: sight, smell, taste, touch, and sounds. But there is so much more, too. 

Do you tip in a Spanish restaurant? 
Which side of the street should you walk on? 
What type of clothing is considered provocative?
What is the grading scale like in Spanish universities? 

The list goes on and on. I definitely don't know the answers to all of these questions, since I've only been here two and a half days. I figure that I will discover some of the answers on my own, some I will need to ask locals or my study abroad program about, and there will be many more that I will not have answered by the time I leave Spain. 

But, here are a few things that I have picked up on in my short time here, thus far: 

• Eating schedule - Maybe this one is more well-known than other aspects of Spanish culture, but it's still a little shocking to experience in person (especially when mixed with jet lag). We eat desayuno (breakfast) around 8 or 9 am, but it is supposed to be very light. A typical Spanish breakfast might consist of a piece of toast with aceite de oliva (olive oil) and cafe (coffee). Almuerzo (lunch) is served around 2 or 3 pm and is generally considered the larger meal of the day. A hearty meat and vegetable stew along with an ensalada (salad) is common for lunch. And cena (dinner) is not until 8, 9, or 10 pm at night. 
• Spaniards tend to dress better than most Americans - Okay, this one I learned both from CEA (my study abroad program) and from observation. Even if it's 90-some degrees Fahrenheit outside, shorts are actually not that common in Seville. In fact, it essentially marks the sign of a tourist, especially if they are "short" shorts. Same goes for tank tops, for the most part. Spaniards tend to wear a nice shirt or blouse and nice pants or capris (jeans are acceptable) - women also wear nice sundresses or skirts. 
• Personal "bubble" - This was actually interesting, because initially it was not something that I realized I observed. Yesterday, at lunch, I was talking to one of the CEA academic advisers who came to Spain to study as a student some number of years ago, fell in love with the country, and never went back. As I was talking to him, I felt sort of uncomfortable, because he kept standing quite close to me when we were talking, and I wasn't sure why. Then, today, I found out that he actually did this intentionally to anyone he talked to. He is "American," but he's lived in Spain for about 15+ years now and he wanted us to realize that there are many different types of cultural differences - those that are spoken and acknowledged, but also those that are more subtle and not always talked about. 

Well, I am definitely interested in finding out about more cultural differences and I'll be sure to share them. 

Anyways, I managed to take some pictures of Sevilla yesterday, so I thought I would share some fun ones: 

La Giralda - I pass this on my way to and from my school!

I also pass this on the way to and from school, but I'm not actually sure what it is... Perhaps part of the city hall?

I just love the color!

This shades me every day on the way to and from school.

One of the things that I just love about Spain is the hidden treasures that you encounter on a daily basis - it just adds to the charm of this beautiful city. Believe it or not, this is actually on a side street just off a main shopping corridor. 

Look, Ma! I actually AM in Spain!

The building across from my Casa de Sevilla, where I am living.

The has-been Tobacco Factory - now part of the University.

Plaza de Espana - this picture does not do it justice, because it is absolutely gorgeous in person. And here's a fun fact: Star Wars Episode I was filmed (in part) here - does the city of Naboo ring a bell? [Also: the picture at the top of my blog is the same plaza, just from a different angle - cool, huh?!]

Torre del Oro - Famous tower where practically all of Spain's gold was stored back in Christopher Columbus' time.